FAQs

Already within the “Circular Economy Package”, adopted by the European Union in July 2018, there was a reference to the desire to strengthen the system of extended producer responsibility and define the methods of recovery of certain categories of particular waste, including textile products.

In addition, EU acts are:

• EU Textile act: strategy for sustainable and circular textiles (March2022)
• Proposal for a targeted revision of the Waste Framework Directive (July 2023)

• Prolong the life of textile products. Fibres are often mixed with others (such as polyester and cotton), making recycling more difficult due to the lack of technology to separate textile waste by fibre.
• Stop the destruction of unsold or returned tissues. Reduce the high percentage of garment returns purchased online, encourage on-demand and bespoke production, improve the efficiency of industrial processes and reduce the carbon footprint of e-commerce.
• Pollution control by microplastics.Up to 40,000 tonnes of synthetic fibres are released each year only in the effluents of washing machines.
• Introduction of information requirements and a digital product passport.
• Implement the extended responsibility of the manufacturer and promotion of reuse and recycling of textile waste.

• Each year, up to 2.1 million tonnes of household clothing and textiles are collected separately in the EU for recycling or sale on world re-use markets, around 38 % of textile products placed on the EU market. The remaining 62 % is estimated to be disposed of in mixed waste streams.
• Extended manufacturer responsibility can encourage product design that promotes circularity throughout the life cycle of materials and takes into account the end-of-life of products.
• Several EU Member States have already planned or are considering the introduction of the EPR for textiles, given the obligation under EU waste legislation to establish separate collection of textile waste by 1 January 2025.

• The scope of producers covered by extended producer responsibility should exclude micro-enterprises (up to 10 employees, 88% of enterprises in the sector) and self-employed tailors who produce customized products in view of their reduced role in the textile market, as well as those placing on the market used textiles, related products and footwear or products derived from the use or waste of such products in order to support reuse, including through repair, renewal and recycling.
• The «eco-contributions» should be based on the weight of the products concerned and modulated on the basis of the ecodesign requirements.
• Equal treatment of producers should be ensured irrespective of their origin or size, without imposing disproportionate burdens on producers, including small and medium-sized enterprises.
• Ensure fair competition and compliance in a well-functioning internal market.
• Address the challenges of exporting textile waste. Exports of textile waste outside the Union are constantly growing and reached 1.4 million tonnes in 2020. The export of textile waste to non-OECD countries will only be allowed provided that these countries notify the Commission of their intention to import certain types of waste and demonstrate their ability to manage it in a sustainable manner.
• To avoid waste streams being falsely labelled as second-hand goods when exported from the EU and thereby evading the waste regime. The EU Commission will consider the development of specific criteria at EU level to distinguish between waste and certain second-hand textiles.

• World production of textiles almost doubled between 2000 and 2015 and consumption of clothing and footwear is expected to increase by 63 % by 2030, from the current 62 million tonnes to 102 million tonnes in 2030.
• In the European Union, the consumption of textiles, mostly imported, currently represents on average the fourth largest negative impact on the environment and climate change and the third largest negative impact on water and soil use from the global life cycle perspective.
• Every year, 5.8 million tonnes of textiles are dumped in the EU, or around 11 kg per person, and every second worldwide, the equivalent of a lorry loaded with textile materials is dumped or incinerated.
• Clothing accounts for the largest share of EU textile consumption (81 %).
• The trend known as “fast fashion” or “quick fashion” – pushes consumers to buy lower quality clothing and lower prices, products quickly in response to the fashion of the moment. The growing demand for textiles fuels the inefficient use of non-renewable resources, including the production of synthetic fibres from fossil fuels.
• These negative impacts arise from a linear model characterised by low rates of use, reuse, repair and recycling of fibre-to-fibre (closed cycle) textiles and often disregarding quality, the durability and recyclability of priorities in the design and packaging of clothing. The dispersion of microplastics from synthetic textiles and footwear throughout their life cycle further increases the environmental impact of the industry.

The textile industry comprises more than 160,000 companies, employs 1.5 million people and generated a turnover of EUR 162 billion in 2019. Composed mainly of small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), it must strengthen its resilience, in particular in terms of energy supply and raw materials, tap into new markets for more sustainable products and become more attractive for a skilled and talented workforce.

• European Green Deal 2019;
• Circular Economy Action Plan 2020;
• 2021 update of the EU industrial strategy.

designate textiles as a value chain of key products in which it is urgent to make the transition to sustainable and circular models of production, consumption and trade that has a strong potential in this regard.

Compared to other European countries, Italy is far ahead in terms of concrete application of the provisions of the Package: the obligation to separate the collection of textile waste has already been in force since the beginning of the year, anticipating the time set by the EU, which provides for its introduction from 2025, and there are already Decrees and Regulations on Extended Producer Liability.

The acts of Italy:

• Outline of the Ministerial Decree for the introduction of an Extended Producer Liability (EPR) regime applied to the world of textiles:
  • First draft December 2022
  • Second Draft June 2023*

*On standby while awaiting publication of the EU Directive

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is one of the key principles of the EU for the implementation of the cd. «Green Economy».

It makes the Producer responsible for the management of the end of life of the product placed on the market to encourage the production of more «sustainable» products, lengthen their life cycle, maximize recycling, decrease dependence on the supply of new resources.

• Compared to the current EPR regimes (WEEE, Batteries, Packaging) the scheme insists on the tasks of the Systems beyond those of mere end of life management of products placed on the market, with particular reference to:
  • Promote the design of eco-friendly and sustainable products.
  • Ensure the widest dissemination of information.
  • Being a meeting place between supply and demand for recycled material.
  • Promote R&D activities and partnerships with research institutions and institutes.
• Field of application: clothing, footwear and accessories. Household textile articles
• Manufacturer:who manufactures or resells under his own brand. Who matters, who markets by any means (including electronic). The manufacturer may pay the environmental contribution on behalf of the «private label» distributor.
• Separate collection targets: 15, 25, 40% of the PMS by 2035. 80% will be used for preparation for re-use, recycling, recovery (with specific preparation targets for re-use). The conclusion of specific program agreements with ANCI.
• Register of Producers:Obligation to register, periodic reporting of the quantities placed on the market, collected and sent to recovery/ reuse.
• Consortia of the Producers:
  • Nonprofit form.
  • Compulsory recognition of the MASE.
  • Minimum market share of 2%.
• Establishment of a Coordination Centre (CORIT).
• Obligation to inform consumers and to finance communication campaigns.
• Obligations on distributors:separate collection under «1 versus 1» for shops with an area of more than 150 m2or 250 m2 depending on the inhabitants of the municipality. The withdrawal scheme «1 against 0» remains voluntary.
• Specific obligations for the online market and market places. They are considered producers in all respects and have the obligation to withdraw as distributors.
• Marketplaces are jointly responsible.